Scheibukta : An Eventful Morning
The next morning I emerged from my cabin as we were still making our way toward our morning landing: Scheibukta, an icy terrain nestled up against the base of mountains. I grabbed a coffee from the ships salon and headed to the deck to watch as we sailed by glaciers and peaks. It was early and only a few of us were awake. A walrus poked his head up from the water and playfully smiled at us before diving again. It was marvelous.
Suddenly, there was a commotion among the crew and we heard the magic words: Polar Bear. Along the base of a mountain at the water’s edge there was a polar bear feeding. We were far enough away from shore that you needed binoculars to get a good look. It was our first sighting and a perfect start to the day!
After breakfast, we anchored at Scheibukta. It was a long stretch of ice with pools of clear and turquoise water and dark abyssal cracks. I packed up my camera, my papers to soak, and my sketchbook. When I got to shore my camera refused to function. I decided to do my best with my iphone and to walk for a while. The ice was magical and mysterious. Collaborations were in full swing all around me and they were incredible to watch come to life! My shipmates are brilliant and I am so excited to share their projects with you as they make them public.
Along the shoreline were washed up treasures: husks of urchins, sea weed, crab remnants, lichens and mosses - and an abundance of trash.
This was a ‘pristine’ wilderness. There was very little between us and the absolute North Pole. No one lived here, and yet as I walked the shore I was unable to carry all of the trash I was finding. We called the Antigua and they brought us tarp bags to use for trash collection. This became my project for the morning. I spent the entire rest of my landing walking and collecting trash. Even with the help of the others, we still did not rid the beach of all of it. We filled the enormous tarp bag and hauled it onto the Antigua. We would collect trash throughout the voyage and the collection would grow exponentially and be disposed of properly back in Longyearbyen.
We found bottles, wrappers, rope of plastic, containers, tarp, caps, ribbon, and plastic chips in every color. They were entwined with the seaweed that had washed ashore, embedded in blocks of ice, and under the rocks and sand. The more I looked the more I saw. the smallest plastics are the most dangerous. There was a specific kind of packaging material that was a woven plastic that would disintegrate into impossibly small slivers. The more you tried to clean it up the more it would break down.
I was shaken. I knew in theory there was trash everywhere, but this was visceral. I talked to our incredible guides, who were simultaneously watching for polar bears and picking up the trash around them. They educated me on the realities of trash in the Arctic. There is still much for me to learn, but here are the basics: this trash rode the currents from around the world and found it’s way to this shore. Some of this trash is from fishing vessels, but much of it came from anyone anywhere. This beach was not as bad as some that we would come across even further North. You could hear the heaviness in their voices. They see this regularly. They clean up regularly. Every time they return there is more.
This was not the way I anticipated spending my morning. I imagined it would be like the previous days: in awe and taking it in through my lens and drawing in my sketchbook. I thought I would be focused on the beauty all around me not looking into the weeds, head down and digging up rocks to pull out a sheet of plastic wrapping- but I am glad I did. I am glad my camera malfunctioned. It is the only time that it did, and it felt meant to be.
After our morning landing on Scheibukta we returned to the ship. I took the last Zodiac back with our guides and the giant bag we had filled. My mind was overwhelmed and my heart heavy. We raised anchor and I returned to my cabin to shed my many layers, fix my camera’s malfunction, and get ready for lunch. In the afternoon we would find ourselves at a new glacier with new things to discover.